From a winter convert!

A visit to Chandigarh Rose Festival.

As the temperature rockets I miss winters. Being born and bred in South India, I seldom understood the eagerness with which North Indians looked forward to the winter and the treats that come with it. The cool, rather cold temperature is welcomed with joy (I was like duh!!! This year night temperature dropped to 1.5 degree C and did not rise above 6 degrees C for about 10 days. Brrrr). There is a frenzy of activity – the winter comforters are aired/dry cleaned, the colourful winter clothes, pashmina shawls, phirans are ready for display.

The vegetable market is filled with energy and residents rush to pick up the sweet red carrot for yummy gajar ka halwa, and mustard leaf for the sarson ka saag! To top it all, it is a delight to drive around Chandigarh where every household plants winter flowers in their garden and every rotary in the city is brimming with colourful, vibrant flowers.

In brief, I am a winter convert!

Towards the end of this joyful season arrives India’s largest Rose Festival in the month of February. How could I miss it?

As I look out of the window towards the blazing heat that promises to cross 42 degree C next week, I miss winter. In memory, and anticipation of the coming winter, I am posting the photo essay of the Rose Festival I visited at Zakir Rose Garden at Sector 16, Chandigarh titled ‘White is my colour of Rose’. 

Photo essay ‘White is my colour of Rose’

If only one could live a Mirage...oh wait…we did!

Mountain holidays - Andretta in Himachal Pradesh

Us

Reproducing the guest post I wrote for Aditi, my best-est friend and partner-in-crime on her aptly named travel blog http://loonyontheloose.blogspot.in/

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Aditi and I started travelling when we were barely out of high school. As Aditi says in her guest post ‘Idealism of Youth’ on our blog (the blog belongs to both me and my husband Guru aka G ) which she wrote for me a few years ago, “Youth gave us optimism, vigour, vitality and a feeling of invincibility”. We were young, poor and foolish. I say foolish because of our then headstrong devil- may -care attitude. We had the nerve to travel all the way from Bangalore to Delhi and then up to Kulu Manali for a longish trek (Chandrakhani pass) and back. We even managed to pack in a side trip to Agra. All this with only Rs. 5,000 each in our pockets and no credit card / debit card to come to our rescue when we almost ran out of all of our paisa towards the end.

Every trip becomes special for a particular reason. The Chandrakani pass trek, we remember for the fairly remote hamlet of Malana where the inhabitants, to this day are of the unshakeable faith that they are the proud descendants of Alexander the Great. And therefore for a reason unfathomable to us, superior beings! On the plus side, being ginger at least in some places is not so bad after all. The Goa trek is etched in our minds for the sheer joy of stealthily sneaking away to Dudh Sagar falls at midnight to welcome New Year by the light of the moon!!! What fun. And more recently, my trip with G to Srinagar, apart from the incredible beauty of the valley, we remember for the unalloyed excitement of driving to a lesser driven place.

At Andretta, the breath taking beauty of the place, the things G and I wanted to see and experience were a given. However, we will always remember this trip for our choice of tasteful/unique accommodation. And true to its name, The Mirage Heritage Homestay was quite a dreamy place not just for its elegance, setting and style but also for all the wonderful people we met there.

The Mirage Heritage Homestay

Andretta

Andretta an artist’s village with its curious Italian name came into being about 75 years ago when Norah Richards, an Irish writer, dramatist and a follower of Tolstoy came here. Norah Richards, the "Nani (grandmother) of Punjabi Theatre", Gurcharan Singh who introduced studio pottery to India and known for Delhi Blue pottery and his son Mansimran (Mini) Singh also a well-known potter,  Sobha Singh painter of Sikh Gurus, B.C. Sanyal painter and sculptor, actor Prithvi Raj Kapoor, Freda Bedi first Western woman to take ordination in Tibetan Buddhism and also mother of actor Kabir Bedi are some of the stalwarts whose names are closely associated nay synonymous with Andretta. To know more about Andretta’s history and culture, read the article written by Mary Singh of Andretta Pottery. Link

Morning walk across fields ripe for harvest

The Mirage 

Food at The Mirage

The Mirage is a homestay run by Denis and Dolly, New Zealander - French couple who have painstakingly created this cosy abode. Mirage sits amidst lush pine forest with the majesticsnow-capped mountains of Dhauladhar for a backdrop. The house is filled with exquisite Indian furniture and handicrafts collected over many years by the couple. We were welcomed with great warmth and diligently served the most delicious and healthy home cooked food - thanks to Dolly. Denis every morning, made sure that we were taken for a brisk walk up the hill, down the gorge, across fields ripe for harvest and through the chai shop. This is probably the healthiest vacation we have ever taken! Our fellow house guests provided stimulating conversation over lazy repasts of breakfast and countless cups of chai on the patio making our stay all the more pleasurable.

But wait, there is more. If you can manage to reluctantly to tear yourself away from the patio of wonderful camaraderie, you can engage in a host of activities in and around Andretta.

At Andretta -

Walk across to Andretta Pottery run by Mini Singh. They have a terracotta museum with authentic Himachali pots and a small shop where you can buy pottery made by them. If a potter’s wheel is available, you can try your hand at it. They charge Rs. 150 for a 20 minute sitting or Rs. 1,500 for the entire day. If you are a serious potter you can enrol yourself for a three month residential course which will set you back by Rs. 75,000. I’ve heard that it’s worth every penny or in this case paisa.

Andretta Pottery. Work in progress.

After, you could walk down to Andretta Chowk to check out the Sobha Singh Art gallery. It is now run by the renowned painter’s family and has a small collection of his original work. Paintings of heroes, freedom fighters, religious figures, romantic tales and portraits- you have it all there- exclusively for your viewing pleasure.

Seasonal entertainment

If you are travelling in October you can expect action at Norah Richard’s house. The house has been renovated by the Punjabi University, Patiala. They perform plays every year on Norah Richard's birthday October 29th at the open air theatre. Entry is free.

Around Andretta -

Temples and Monasteries

Bir is a Tibetian settlement about 22 km from Andretta. Bir houses the Dirru Sakya Monastery which belongs to the Sakya School of Tibetan Buddhism which was founded in 1073 by the distinguished Tibetan Master Khon Konchok Gyalpo.  You can also visit Tashi Jong Monastery in the vicinity and also the SherabLing Monastery at Baijnath.

Dirru Sakya Monastery at Bir

A trip to the ancient Shiva Temple at Baijnath (11 km) may also be worthwhile. This is a temple built in the Nagara style, a medieval  Noth Indian style of architecture in the year 1204 AD. Lord Shiva is represented as Vaidyanath or ‘the Lord of Physicians’ at this temple.

You can also visit Jwalamukhi Mata Temple about 65 km.

There are natural flames in the temple which are worshipped as a manifestation of the nine Goddesses - Mahakali, Unpurna, Chandi, Hinglaj, Bindhya Basni, Maha Lakshmi, Saraswati, Ambika and Anji Devi. These flames burn continuously without any fuel or assistance and may be seen erupting from a rock-side.

If you travel 65 km you can visit McLeod Ganj and visit the Tibetan Government in exile which is about 65 km away. Here you can visit Norbulingka Institute at Dharmshala 40 km away, where you can pick up some authentic Tibetian artifacts made at their training centre, Namlang Monastry etc.

Adventure Sports –

Bir-Billing (elevation 5,003 ft and 12,762 feet) is a high altitude paraglide haunt. A 14 km picturesque drive from Bir takes you to Billing the take-off point. It is the world’s third highest and Asia’s highest take off point. G enjoyed a tandem jump with PG Gurukul a paraglide academy. You can call Gurpreet who runs the place on +919816 525205 to book a slot.  If you are too queasy to jump off the cliff, I suggest you take a picnic basket to Billing and delight in stunning views of the valley.  A trek in the region is also a good idea.

Massage –

To relax after the adrenalin rush of paragliding, visit Kayakalp, Himalayan Research Institute for Yoga and Naturapathy at Palampur for a rejuvenating ayurvedic massage. To continue with the pampering, why not follow with a lovely lunch at Taragarh Hotel near Palampur. This imposing residential estate now belongs to the Royals of Jammu and Kashmir and was previously occupied for several years by their dowager Maharani.

Getting to Andretta –

You can reach Andretta via the much plied Dharmsala – McLeod Ganj route. While driving to Andretta via Kangra, I would highly recommend a visit the Kangra Fort at Old Kangra. Do hire the audio guide available both in Hindi and English which will gives you a fair understanding of the history and story of the fort.

a) The Jammu route

You can also get therevVia Jammu – Fly to Jammu  and  then drive down to Andretta which is a 5 hour drive  via Pathankot. You can also get to Pathankot by bus or train. From here it is an easy bus ride away. Alternatively, take the scenic toy train from Pathankot to Panchrukhi. Andretta is about 2 km away.

Driving route: Jammu – Pathankot - Nurpur - Gaggal – Mataur - Nagrota Bhagwan – Maranda – Rajpur - Panchrukhi –Andretta (take right at Sobha Singh Art Gallery which is also known as Andretta Chowk. It is the house opposite Andretta Pottery).

b) The Chandigarh route

 Fly, or take a Shatabdi train (from Delhi) to Chandigarh. Andretta is a 7 hour drive away from Chadigarh. There are also buses which take you very close to Andretta – Palampur, Baijnath, Kangra from where you get plenty of connections to Andretta.

Driving route: Chandigarh – Nangal - Una – Amb – Old Kangra – Kangra bypass towards Tanda Medical College – Nagrota Bhagwan – Maranda – Rajpur - Panchrukhi –Andretta (take right at Shoba Singh Art Gallery which is also known as Andretta Chowk. It is the house opposite Andretta Pottery).

c) Direct buses from Delhi

We saw a lot of buses plying from Delhi to Kangra, Baijnath, Palampur. There is a Volvo service as well.

d) Other route suggestions

Chandigarh – Andretta / Kangra – Amritsar is a triangle. On the way back you have the choice of driving down to Amritsar. You can connect direct to Delhi by Shatabdi or alternatively fly back.

Accommodation Recommendations-

Andretta – The Mirage Heritage Home stay www.mirageandretta.com
Palampur – Hotel Tea Bud run by Himachal Tourism http://www.hptdc.nic.in/cir0302.htm#htbud
Bir – Blue Umbrella http://www.blueumbrella.co.in/, Colonel’s Resort http://www.colonelsresort.com/ and  Namlang - Himal Resort www.namlanghimaltourism.org
Gunehad (off Bir)- 4rooms (yet to be completed)https://www.facebook.com/pages/4TABLES-Cafe-Gallery-Village-Bir/124614917546

A little of Little Lhasa!

August 2012

Post by G

There is so much to see and do in Himachal Pradesh. When we wanted to start exploring the Himachal, the first destination that came to our mind was Dharamshala.  Of course, I am counting out Shimla and Kasauli, which are quick getaways from Chandigarh.  And, most frequented as well.  Accompanied by our friends who were visiting us from Hyderabad, we headed out to our first long drive in our Bolero.  It was August and monsoons had set in.  The drive was expected to be good, but one had to be careful of the rains and the occasional mud slide as we reach greater heights while driving to McLeod Ganj.

There are really 3 pockets you can visit in this region –

Kangra – Fort, museum
Palampur – Tea estate, adventure sports like para gliding and sailing, Andretta artist village, Buddhist Monastery at Bir,Jwalamukhi Temple McLeod Ganj and Dharamshala – Seat of Tibetan government in exile, trekking, coffee shop and great food.

On this trip, we mainly focused on McLeod Ganj and spent some time at Kangra on our way back.  Palampur is a trip in its own right and we hope to go up there sometime soon.

Drive:

Chandigarh – Anandpur Sahib – Nangal – Una – Amb – Kangra – Dharamshala – McLeod Ganj

Chandigarh to McLeod Ganj is 241 km. Up to Nangal the roads are excellent, and again improves closer to Kangra where you start climbing uphill. The ‘bad patch’ is under construction and  hopefully will be upgraded to good condition by the time you undertake the trip. 

Beautiful sunset as we crossed River Beas
55 km from our destination

We set off on a Friday afternoon from Chandigarh.  We stopped at a roadside Vaishno Dhaba in Amb.  It was run by an elderly couple who cooked lunch for us.  It was very tasty and in some sense helped us carry along all the way to McLeod Ganj.  The terrain changes after Amb and the climb begins.  We were driving out of the sultry weather in Chandigarh and the cool breeze that awaited us as we climbed was most welcome.   For those of us who are thinking of Dharamshala and want to actually go to the place that Dalai Lama has made famous, we are actually referring to McLedo Ganj (or upper Dharamshala).  Dharamshala is more the administrative capital of the Kangra district while McLeod Ganj is the capital of the Tibetan Government-in-exile.  We reached McLeod Ganj by nightfall.  The place is unimaginably small and you will be past the town in 5 minutes flat. But, therein lies the charm! At the downtown square, we encountered the vibrant night life of McLeod Ganj.  Like any downtown, there was a traffic jam of sorts even late in the evening.  

We stayed at Flourishing Flora, a small B&B run by a family.  It is on the Dharamkot road, opposite the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts.  The stay is quite light on the pocket and if you are ok with ‘only one towel per room’ policy of the place, then I would highly recommend this. The place also doubles up as a nice nursery and their food is very good. Since the family runs the place, you will have to plan your meal timings in advance.  That said, it is an excellent choice and we have no regrets with the place.  We rested the night and it was a well deserved break after the 7 hour drive from Chandigarh.

View from Cafe Illiterati

On Saturday morning, we set off on foot to the Dalai Lama’s temple.  I have to confess that this is no architectural marvel, but the place holds much significance to the Tibetan population worldwide. It is a sanctuary of sorts. Once inside, you will find the devout going about their prayers and tourists like us clicking away photographs.  We spotted the residence of the Dalai Lama.  It is quite an unassuming quarter within the temple complex.  But, heavily guarded though.  We were told that the Dalai Lama enjoys protection provided by the Para Commandos, Intelligence Bureau, Himachal Pradesh in addition to the police of the Tibetan government in exile. While in the temple, you cannot definitely miss the loud chanting of prayers by young Buddhist monks on one side, while their colleagues try and distract them.  This, we are told, is to help strengthen their concentration.  It is quite a sight to see young boy-monks in orange and red robes going about their religious training with such diligence. The ornate carvings inside the temple where the statues are kept are quite intricate and detailed.  The road leading to the temple is quite a shopper’s delight. You will find vendors on both sides of the narrow road, selling religious curios, sweaters, handicrafts, silver jewellery, beads and of course, delightful eateries dotted the path.  The temple has a book store which can be very attractive for someone into Buddhist studies.

After the temple, we decided to walk down to the Tibetan Library on the Jogibara Road. On the way, we spotted a cafe with an unusual name, Illiterati. We made a note to visit this place on our way back.  The library is situated within the offices of the Tibetan Government in Exile.  It was interesting to see the various office of the government – Home, Foreign Affairs, Education etc.  They even have a department for Chinese Language Studies. Ironical of sorts, don’t you think? The library was closed since it was a government holiday and we quickly made our way back to Cafe Illiterati. This place has lots of books an excellent menu.  But, what takes the cake is the view from the balcony.  We ordered some tea, pasta and sat there far longer than we planned to.  What is the point of going on a holiday, if you can’t relax and take things as they are offered?  

Map of McLeod Ganj

We decided to spend some time shopping. When people found out that we are from Bangalore, their reaction was very warm.  A lot of them have been to Bangalore and have stayed there.  The proximity of Bylakuppe, another Tibetan settlement, to Bangalore is another important reason for this affinity.  We often wondered if the migration of Tibetans to India is a subject of the past.  We found our answer here. One of the assistants in the shop barely spoke Hindi or English. This was strange.  While paying the bills, when we asked the shop owner she said that this girl (in her late teens) had just reached Dharamshala about three months ago from Tibet and she is in the process of learning the language. When we think of international relations and the human struggle for identity and existence it is stories such as these that stand out   make it all worth it.

There are quite a few places to see in McLeod Ganj – the Dal late, the Bhagsu falls, St Johns Church, maybe a quick trip to Dharamkot. We chose to drive down to the Bhagsu temple – a shrine of Lord Shiva also called Bhagsunath. Like most other structures in the region, this temple was destroyed in the great Kangra earthquake of 1904. It has since been rebuilt and enjoys the patronage of the local units of the Indian Army. 

Tired as we were, our interest was still very much high.  For dinner, we went to a Tibetan vegetarian restaurant. 

Where Gods descend to play. Dharmashala Cricket Stadium

We checked out early Sunday morning.  Our destination was the Kangra Fort.  We stopped at the Dharamshala Cricket Stadium.  It has to be one of the most picturesque cricket stadiums in the world.  Don’t blame a fielder if he drops a catch at the boundary, for he may be admiring the beautiful Dhauladhar ranges in the background.

The Kangra fort, like many of its counterparts, is maintained by the Archeological Survey of India.  It is supposed to be the largest fort in the Himalayas.  At the ticket counter, do look out for a staff of the royal family selling audio tour of the fort.  It is Rs. 100 per person and completely worth it. Without the accompanying explanation on the head set, the visit to the fort will do utter injustice to the rich past.  The views from the fort are breathtaking to say the least.  It can get very hot, so please do take a bottle of water with you and a cap is recommended.   At a quick pace, you need about 2 – 2 ½ hours to tour the fort. 

The drive back to Chandigarh was pleasant.  Enroute, we saw groups of devotees going to the Jwalamukhi temple.  The mighty Beas cuts across the high way at some point and it is worth a halt.  The entire route is dotted with dhabas who serve excellent food.  Don’t bother about the calories. Load ‘em up! :)

We were back in Chandigarh in time for dinner.

In case you are planning a trip, here are some of the stay options - 

Heritage/Mid range - http://www.kangragroup.com/villa.html  

Basic but neat - Flourishing Flora http://www.mcleodganjhomestay.net/

HP tourism has 3 properties. Hotel Kashmir is supposed to have really good view. Since it is govt. run, service may not be top class. But recommended for superb location and view http://hptdc.nic.in/cir0302.htm#htbud

Amritsar - a journey into our past!!

August 2012

G and I seem to be making a habit of taking holidays in places that have worse weather than the place where we live! Remember our trip to Kumbalgarh (The Great Wall of India!).... Yaa, this time we decided to visit Amritsar during the monsoon month of August which is basically hotter and sultrier than Chandigarh. Our motivation – not to waste a long weekend brooding at home and of course our (then) new Bolero which we wanted to drive forever!

Amritsar calls to me. It is probably the charm and intrigue of an old city which I miss in Chandigarh - a city built in the 1950s! Exploring the tombs, palaces, markets of Hyderabad is what we really enjoyed during our stay there, which Amritsar offers! And, well, some people who have been with me to Amritsar will say it is the Amritsari Kulchas and makhan that does the calling! :)



Sri Harmandir Sahib - love the night view

 Little about Amritsar and the region -

Amritsar and Punjab region is steeped in history.... Sikhism and its militarisation to stand up against atrocities of Mughal rulers against Sikh and Hindu community; their role in Indian Freedom movement; later on receiving the brunt of Indo-Pak partition; the unfortunate Operation Blue Star, and the testing period that followed! As our guide at Amritsar Heritage Walk nicely puts it, Punjab history can be segmented into three periods, and we saw something from each of these periods during our trip.... 

(a) Guru Period (1469 to 1708) when Sikh religion was founded by Guru Nanak Dev in the 15^th century and the 10 Gurus who followed him.

(b) Sikh Misl & Empire (1707 - 1849 ) when Punjab region organised itself into 12 sovereign states or Misl which was later on consolidated by Raja Ranjit Singh under one banner as the Sikh Empire. The Empire was dissolved with their defeat at Anglo-Sikh Wars in the hands of the British.

(c) Followed by British Period (1849-1947) lasting up to Indian Independence!

The Drive -

Amritsar is a 250 km drive from Chandigarh. That is an easy 4.5 - 5 hour drive with a lunch break. The road condition is good and the drive beautiful – flourishing green fields and gushing water in the canals make the drive very pleasant.

One needs at least two days for the visit (including travel). What we did was a relaxed three days.

En route –



- Food on the highway: ......brace yourselves. 'Haveli'..good food debauch begins here, if not at the innumerable roadside dhabas! An ideal break would be at Jalandhar. We stopped at the Haveli, which is just before the city. Ask to be seated at the Rangla Punjab section of the restaurant which recreates a Punjabi village. For a quick meal or snack, you can eat at the main section of the restaurant. We are told that the ‘Lucky Vaishnov Dhaba’ nearby is also a good option.

- Kartarpur: a town about 15 kms from Jalandhar is known for its wooden furniture. Many inviting showrooms are located right at the highway, sadly unexplored by me! But we have driven past the town with my tongue hanging out and Guru flooring the accelerator of the Bolero least we stop for an impulsive purchase!

 - Pushpa Gujral Science City, Kapurtala: take a detour at Kartarpur. This detour will add about 35 km to your trip. Kids, in particular, will love visiting the Science City.



Pushpa Gujral Science City, Kapurtala

Stay –
We stayed at Mrs. Bhandari’s Guest House a quaint B&B started in the 1950s by Mrs. B to support her family after she lost her husband. This truly is a home away from home!  Tip - don’t forget to pack your swim wear! They have a compact swimming pool where you can cool off. If you are travelling with kids, this is an ideal spot with big lawns to run about, garden to play hide and seek and a small play area with swing, etc. The staff are very courteous and helpful. This Google+ description nicely describes the place (link)!  

If you are looking to stay at a hotel, we recommend Country Inn and Suites by Carlson

Mrs. B's at 10, Amritsar Cantonment

Places to Visit -

Golden Temple -

Sri Harmandir Sahib, Swarn Mandir Sahib, ‘have seen all places; there in not another like thee’ - Sri Guru Granth Sahib



As we entered the parikrama of Sri Harmandir Sahib, a sense of calmness descended upon us. What hits you the moment you set eyes on the Gurudwara is its resplendent beauty, and at night, its beauty is enhanced multi-fold by the temple’s golden reflection that bounces off the tank water! If you believe that beauty is a form of God, you see proof here!

Sri Harmandir Sahib also known as the Golden Temple literally means ‘The Temple of God’ and is built amidst a man made tank known as ‘Amritsar’ which means ‘Pool of Nectar’. The Gurudwara was built in the 16^th century and the gold covering that gives the Gurudwara its distinctive appearance and its English name (Golden Temple) was installed in the early nineteenth century by Maharaja Ranjit Singh.

A little more history to complete my story...
Guru Granth Sahib housed at Sri Harmandir Sahib is the compilation of the preaching of the 10 Gurus. Sikhism has evolved during the Guru Period. One of the important changes being the militarisation of the religion by the tenth and last Guru, Guru Gobind Singh to fight against the oppression of Mughals, including conversion of Sikhs and Hindus to Islam. Guru Gobind Singh before his death commanded that Guru Granth Sahib be the ultimate spiritual authority and to be considered as the perpetual living Guru for the Sikhs, and temporal authority to be vested in the Khalsa Panth – the Sikh Nation. (Khalsa translates to ‘Sovereign / Free’ and is responsible for the executive, military and civil authority of the Sikh nation. Khalsa also mean ‘Pure’).

The temple stands out for its cleanliness. We would recommend that you definitely visit the temple at night as well, so as to see in its resplendent glory. Do go to the langar and get prasad.

Jallianwala Bagh Martyr’s Memorial –

Where: 300m from Golden Temple complex

 

Peaceful celebrators gathered on the occasion of the Punjabi New Year on April 13, 1919 and were massacred by the Brigadier-General Reginald E.H. Dyer of the British Raj simply because they dared to gather when orders were given forbidding large crowds from gathering! When the crowd could not escape the firing in the enclosed garden, they threw themselves into a well in desperation. 120 bodies were retrieved after the incident. Official British sources placed the fatalities at 379, and with 1100 wounded. Civil Surgeon Dr. Smith indicated that there were 1,526 casualties. An unforgettable page in our history and freedom struggle movement....

Wagah Border Closing Ceremony –

Where: 30 km from Amritsar on Grand Trunk (GT) Road

 

Vande Mataram!

Patriotic songs resonates as you enter the seating arena. On an average about 5,000 people converge to watch the ceremony. Since we visited during the Independence Day weekend, the estimate of the attendance was around 12,000! 'Carefully choreographed contempt’ is how British television presenter Michael Palin describes the ceremony. It is a dance of aggression by the Indian and Pakistani soldiers - they march in anger - open the border gates –a staring competition ensues– National flags are lowered – a quick handshake by the jawans and the gates are banged shut – all in practised union. What an oxymoron! The ceremony starts a little short of sunset every day. Be present well in advance to (try and) grab good seats.  



Last Indian post box on GT Road

En route to Wagah, try and stop at Khalsa College, a beautiful Indo-Gothic building. Spread over 300 acres, it looks more like a palace than a college! You can also stop at Sarhad, restaurant about 1.5 km from Wagah border on GT Road. They describe themselves as “The Museum of Peace, a celebration of the common architectural, cultural and culinary heritage of pre-partition Punjab in general and Amritsar-Lahore in particular.” Interesting....

Amritsar Heritage Walk –
Where: Starts at Town Hall very close to Golden Temple at 8 am in the morning and 830 am during winters and ends at the Golden Temple. Rajwinder Kaur is the guide on the walk. She can be reached at +91 9501764400.

Eat –

Hmmmm.... the most important part of the post. Listen carefully. 

• Guru ke Langer at the Golden Temple complex.
• Kanha Sweets on Lawrence Road between 8 am to 3 pm for Dal bhari poori and bhaji.
• Jalebi at Gurdass Ram Jalebi wale at Ahluwali Katra very close to the main gate of Golden Temple. Walk able from the temple. Just ask anyone for directions.
• Kesar da Dhaba – very famous. You can consider this for lunch. Expect a little waiting. Since roads are small take a pull rickshaw. Tel: + 91(183)2552103, 3195000, + 919815576117
• Darshan Lal Kulchewala near Chowrasti Atari. Reachable by foot. Try and club this with the Heritage Walk so that the guide can show you the place.
• Khulche cholle Dhaba, Shop No 1, Maqbool road, +91(183)2504360. Didn’t have the time to cover this during our visit.
• Lassi at Hall Bazaar,Lassi wala chownk, Opposite Regent cinema.
• If you want a proper restaurant, Crystal on Queens road is supposed to be good.
• Sarhad en route to Wagha. +91 183 2382000, +91 9815555931



Darshan Lal Kulchewala - the bestest!

Gurdass Ram Jalebi

Please note: All pictures are of food being prepared, well, someone was too busy eating to take pictures of finished products.

Shop –

Well, we were too busy eating to go shopping. You can pick up juthe near Hall Gate. We shopped at Raunak Punjabi Jutti, +91(183)2540999.

- o -

 

Have a great trip and come back with more recommendations for places to eat, shop and see!

Note: Jallianwala Bagh picture from Wikipedia.

Road trip to Heaven... (Part 2)

Sep/Oct 2012

Kashmir Part 2

Three Exotic Destinations

Where, what, when at our destinations was G&R-ed by our colleague. So, the three exotic destinations were Srinagar, Gulmarg and Pahalgam. Beauty at all these places surpassed our imagination by big measure! End September - early October is a lean period between summer holidaymakers and Dasara/Deepavali holidaymakers which made our visit more pleasurable!    

Our earlier post Road trip to Heaven... (Part 1) has details on getting to these places by road. 

Srinagar – Venice of the East
"Gar firdaus, ruhe zamin ast, hamin asto, hamin asto, hamin ast"

Sunrise - Chai - Nirvana!

“If paradise is anywhere on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here!” is what Emperor Jahangir remarked while staying at a houseboat on the Dal Lake.

This perfectly describes our experience at the houseboat on Nigeen Lake. Early morning sun rays reflecting off the lake water while we sipped hot masala chai and Kashmiri Kahwa to Pt. Hariprasad Chaurasia’s melodious flute rendition felt very close to paradise. Ah! One can get used to that life!

For us, Srinagar was all about houseboat and shopping. The city itself is congested and nowhere near what a state capital should be like. 

See

- Dal Lake – Dal, in my mind is the mascot of Srinagar. It is the biggest lake in the city with a  coastline of 15.5 km. You will invariably end up driving around the lake to get to the sights. Take a Shikara (row boat) ride on the lake. Shikara stand is on Boulevard road. You can hire them by the hour.

Glimpses of Paradise from Shalimar

- Mughal Gardens – that would be Chesmashahi, Nishat and Shalimar all laid around the Dal. The latter two being popular amongst tourists. These terraced gardens were Mughal Emporer’s idea of Paradise on earth, a place of rest, reflection and reminder of Jannat! The agenda would be a leisurely stroll followed by a leisurely coffee/tea session at the cafe. The flowers are beautiful, so, keep your camera handy.

- Shankaracharya Hill – the hill top has a 200 BC Shiva temple. Adi Guru Sri Shankaracharya visited this temple and ever since, the hill has been known by his name. You have to enter the hill near Shikara stand. Since the hill is maintained by security forces, you are not allowed mobile phone and cameras into the temple. It is a 15 mins drive to the top and a further climb of 200 steps. 

Floating Post Office

- Nehru Park Post Office – This is a floating post office which had almost sunk! Jump out of your vehicle while you drive on Boulevard road to post a postcard to yourself. It is ahead of Shikara stand as you drive from Dal Gate.

- The Hazratbal Shrine – located to the West of the Dal is considered to be the holiest Islamic shrine in Kashmir. It is believed that the Moi-e-Muqqadas (the sacred hair) of Prophet Mohammed to be preserved here. 



Stay
First question - Dal Vs. Nigeen for houseboat. Dal per se does not have houseboats. The Dal canals are where the houseboats are anchored. Dal houseboats are only a Shikara ride away from city/tourist center, therefore it is very crowded. Whereas, Nigeen is smaller, slightly away from city/tourist center, but you have the luxury of being anchored at the lake itself and is definitely less crowded.

Houseboat - Shikara at Wangnoo

For the less adventurous, one has hotels. The usual suspects; Vivanta by Taj - Dal View, The Lalit Grand Palace are available in the luxury segment. In the mid-range Hotel Dar-Es-Salam positioned as a boutique hotel is right on Nigeen Lake. For budget, Hotel JH Bazaz (Happy Cottage), Blooming Dale Hotel Cottages and Hotel Brown Palace at Dal Gate seem to have good reviews. JKTDC properties are worth checking out. 

Our recommendation would be Wangnoo Houseboats on Nigeen Lake for the beauty of the lake, excellent hospitality and food.

Shop
Your shopping list could look like this; 
- Phiran – loose woolen kurta with embroidery
- Shawls, stoles, scarves
- Saffron - grown locally
- Walnuts - grown locally
- Dry currants  - comes from Afghan
- Kashmiri tea if you are interested in learning and making Kahwah
- Rugs and carpets
- Cricket bat (don’t be surprised)

With Mr. Marvelous - my fav. Shikara vendor
Please note my new Phiran!

Shop at your doorstep

If you are staying on a houseboat, the floating market comes to you. Vegetables, fruits, saffron, shawls, flowers, flower seeds are brought to you by Shikara vendors. These vendors can be quite insistent and have a habit of settling on the houseboat balcony. In case you are not interested in shopping at 7 am, be firm and ask them to go away. We recommend you see the stores in the city before you buy from Shikara vendors. 

Shawls, Stoles, Scarves and Phirans
- Polo View Road: From our asking around and survey, we found Polo View road the best option. We found two shops suitable here as they were reasonably priced and had good quality products.  The two winners are G. M. Shah at the beginning of the road, and the 'shop-to-its-right' (as you face G. M. Shah). They have choice of handmade and machine embroidery, wool and pashmina. The 'shop-to-its-right' in addition to the GM Shah stuff, has a section for tailored woolen jackets, suites, hats, golf caps for both men and women in tweed, wool etc. which we recommend.

Exotic paper mache needlework on pashmina

- Nishat Harwan Road: Many shops are located on the road that connects Shalimar and Nishat gardens. The shop we visited was ‘Kashmir House’. This was a high end store which specialised in needlework. They also had rugs and carpets. Their shawls and stoles were 'exotic with a capital E'! The only reason I did not buy one of their shawl is because each of their 'exotic with a capital E' shawl was at least double our annual budget for clothing!

Let me not scare you away. They also have very nice pashmina without needlework, bright and burberry-ish stoles in high quality woolen, shawls and scarf with what they call ‘simple work’ which will not burn a hole and half in your pocket (Ya, yaa, I am owner of few of these!).

Dal Gate also has many shops. However, they seemed a little busy and touristy though!

Dry Fruits
G. M. Shah has a dry fruit store next to their clothes shop. We also purchased a fair bit at stores near Lal Chowk.

Lal Chowk

Cricket Bat
Cricket bats made in Kashmir is supposed to be of international standard. It is made from willow wood which was originally brought to India by the British. As you exit from South Srinagar to head to Anantnag en route to Pahalgam,  you will come across shops making and selling these bats!

Eat
Kashmiris are predominantly meat eaters, especially mutton. Vegetarians fear not. Vegetarian food is available widely and in variety.

You can request your houseboat to cook the meal you want. Our group requested for an authentic Kashmiri khana and were treated with Kashmiri Paulav, Yakhni, Kababs, Paneer preparations. Our request for lotus stem curry which is a delicacy in this region could not be met since the lotus stem season had gone by :( (talk about reasons to go back again!).

The crown of Kashmiri cuisine is Wazwan which is an elaborate thali predominantly of meat – mutton, chicken and fish. We have referred a restaurant in the Pahalgam section. Also, Baluchi at The LaLit offers Baluchistan cuisine (interesting). Jan Bakery at Dal Lake is supposed to be good. Hotel Malik Palace near Dal Lake and MA Road has Cafe Coffee Day. The latter has a food court with excellent chaat, continental and barbeque options.

Warning - All restaurants close by 9-9:30 pm. This must be a hangover from curfew days! So, keep a close watch on the clock while you shop!

Get There
You can fly from Chandigarh, Delhi, Jammu and Leh. It is more fun to drive down though. For details about our road trip to these three exotic destinations, please read Road Trip to Heaven...(Part 1).  

Gulmarg - Meadow of Flowers

Horses waiting to give you a ride!

Gulmarg translates to ‘Meadow of Flowers’ and I still don’t know why Yash Chopra has not shot a love song here! OMG, this place is not only beautiful, it is clean!

 Gulmarg is a base for skiers during snow (mid Dec to end Feb). In hotter clime it is an excellent place to either play golf or just do nothing........................................................................... (Hmm, that’s me day dreaming!). One drives through pine covered slopes, never ending green grass and chinar trees - on a road without potholes to get to this OMG place! You have to park outside the meadow and take a pony ride or hire one of the local hotel taxis to get in. We recommend you walk.

Hotel Highland Park

Stay
Any hotel on the meadow is perfect. Hotel Highland Park is a meadow scene out of Enid Blyton books. We had lunch here. The Vintage, Gulmarg  and Khyber Hotels have good reviews.

Do
 Apart from pony ride and leisurely walk, you can take the Gondola up to the mountain top. The Gulmarg Gondola is Asia's highest and longest cable car project. It provides a ride from Gulmarg Meadow at 8825 feet above sea level to Kongdori at 10,006 feet in phase 1. Phase 2 connects onward to Apharwat at 12,960 feet.

Get there

Please read Road Trip to Heaven...(Part 1) about how to get to Gulmarg.

Pahalgam – Village of Shepherds

Lidder River in our backyard.

Pahalgam is a valley in the sky at 7,200 feet above sea level. Pahalgam is surrounded by beautiful mountains and one gets the impression of being able to touch these mountains by jumping into the air! (Oops, that's me being dramatic. Sorry :P). Lidder river from Lidder glacier cuts through the town making it an angler's paradise for trout fishing !
We stayed at Himalaya House near the Golf Course and arrived late in the night. We could hear the water flowing in our backyard through the night! Walking on the banks of the river and putting our leg in the ice cold water, as early morning sun warmed our backs was absolutely delightful!

We recommend you stay at a hotel/B&B that is right next to the river. Himalaya House is an option but make sure they put you in a room which is closer to the river (they have a property across the road too) or any property near the Golf Course road is an option - Hotel The Mansion, Hotel Pine Spring. Yenas Lodge though slightly remote looks promising.  

Bone chilling water! Brrrr...

Pahalgam Hotel which is the oldest hotel in the city is a legend. They have a cool coffee shop called Cafe Log Inn and a restaurant called Trout Beat which apparently serves authentic trout recipes. The Almirah the souvenier shop and book shop at the hotel has needle work made by Gujjar and Bakkarwala women which you should check out. Kashmiri wazwan at Glacier Hotel has been recommended. 

Our only regret on this trip is that we could not spend more time in Pahalgam and go trekking into the mountains. All is not lost - Pahalgam is the base camp for Amarnath Yatra and I am sure we will return sooner than later to remedy this!

Do
- Angling and trout fishing
- Trekking and camping

- Picnic
- Visit Lidder amusement park 

- River rafting (April to August)

- Visit Amarnath

- Play golf

Shepherds of Pahalgam

Bakkar traffic jam

One striking aspect of the drive between Jammu and Srinagar at this time of the year is the frequent encounters with sheep and their shepherds.  Ahead of winters, the Bakkarwalas take their entire herd of sheep from the hills to the plains.  We are told they go as far down to the plains of Rajasthan and Punjab at times! The Gujjars apparently own small parcels of land and they come back to their land after the grazing. What catches your eye is the vibrant stitches  Gujjar and Bakkarwal women do on the saddle.

Get there

Please read Road Trip to Heaven...(Part 1) about how to get to Pahalgam.

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The trip has indeed been an education. We could not see, explore and experience everything J&K has to offer in a single trip. We hope to return, to go deeper into the mountains... We were met with warmth, love and beauty throughout our trip.  It is our only wish that our compatriots from this region soon find peace! Inshallah!!

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